About Collioure
Collioure has four beaches, three of them fairly small and pebbled, the one at the end of our road is larger and sandier.
For any art lover, Collioure is a must. Matisse visited here and was inspired and revitalized by the lovely scenery. It’s easy to imagine how. The small town, with its ochre rooftops and castle at the edge of the shore, is endlessly charming. And getting up early in the morning to see the sun rise over the sea you realise the truth of its name, the Vermillion Coast.
Matisse’s vivid paintings sparked a new art movement, Fauvism, which attracted other artists, Derain, Picasso and Chagall among them, to this small town. They hung out at the bar of the Hôtel-Restaurant les Templiers, which still has paintings given by artists in lieu of payment, hanging on its walls.
“Collioure is France with a Catalan accent, only 20 minutes from the Pyrenees and Spanish Catalonia. Its clean streets are full of small restaurants, art galleries, souvenir shops and chic boutiques”
The village is packed with art galleries in the narrow streets behind the main quay, the highlight being the Chemin du Fauvisme. At this unique outdoor museum, you follow the trail to find replicas of Fauvist works posted in the spot where they were painted.
As well as over 30 art galleries there are countless wine outlets run by the vineyards and wine co-operatives that surround the town. In winter the hills look barren but in spring and summer the vines run down to the sea cloaking everywhere in green. Is is a small appellation with both red and white wines, and the sweet aperitif Banyuls wine which started life as a sacramental wine for the Knights Templar. Try it, and if you like it bring some home as it is almost impossible to buy in the UK.
Collioure is close to Spain and both Figueres, the birth place of Salvador Dali, and Barcelona can be visited in a day. The former more so as the new high speed rail-link has opened between Perpignan and Gerona.
Away from the sea, there is much to do and visit. If you prefer more physical activities there is plenty to do. There is good running, walking and swimming on our doorstep. Within a short drive we have been canyoning, go-carting, mountain walking, and white water rafting.
We have enjoyed visiting Ceret which lies about 30 minutes’ drive away inland. In May it is famed for its cherry trees, it has an art gallery with a Picasso collection and works by other artists who visited the region. Its Saturday morning market stretches through the old town though many of the stalls come to Collioure the following day, saving aching arms.
Perpignan is the regional capital. We have only visited in June when St James’ Day, 23rd June, is celebrated with lit torches brought down from Mt Canigou. This is a new tradition started in the 1950s but is a good excuse for more sardana, fireworks and speeches in catalan.
Further inland and going east but still within a couple of hours’ drive there is Cathar country with its imposing and rather sad castles. The history of this part of France is one of rebellion and war and these beautiful bleak structures are its legacy.
“Collioure is like St Ives - but with the most glorious weather guaranteed for 6 months of the year”
Neither France nor Spain, this is Catalonia. It can at times feel more like Spain than France. Spanish hours are the norm, with late lunches and dinners. In fact, in a sense you are no longer in France, and you aren’t really in Spain either. Unlike in Spanish Catalonia, the catalan language is spoken by only a small number of people though we have been aware of a strong sense of and pride in their regional identity.
As such its local customs are to be savoured and enjoyed.
This is the heart of Catalonia, a cultural enclave that has swapped hands between the two countries over the years and Collioure is in the very heart itself, embracing the French culture but retaining its old Catalan soul. Please come and savour its unique flavour, relax and enjoy.
In the Apartment there are regional maps and guides of the area.
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